On a McCormick rake what you need to watch out for is wear on the real pipe bars and the bearings they ride in.. Left hand one especially, I don't know why that one wears more. I in my rebuilding rakes for the Amish have has some that the center real bearing were wore completely thru and the real bars wore as well to point of breaking. The end bearing I have had one side of the real bars completely wore away. The procidure for the worn bars is to get a good bar from a parts rake, as long as it is straight and take that and cut piecers out of it to cut bad out of orignal bar and weld the replacement sections in. You have to be good at welding for that to get the bars straigh after they are welded and you need to keep the holes all in perfect alignment. I had a different way of repairing the bars for the Amish dealer for resale. Since I have been doing that I am sure I rebuilt way over 40 hay rakes including the McCormick, New Idea that most prefer and it is good for lifting that rained on hay to dry out (the 3 bar McCormick does that as well, just not as good a overal rake, no grease fittings, just oil can lube), John Deere, J I Case & M Moline. And I had a David Bradley I used along with the NI rake.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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