The starter would still turn the same direction regardless of polarity so I don't see any polarity swap as the problem. If the starter and cables get hot that tells me excess current is being drawn so here are a few thoughts. Since you changed battery polarity check those connections !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1) Starter could be mechanically stuck/jammed into the flywheel. Using 12 volts on an old 6 volt starter can be tough on the drives, maybe it is damaged?? Try rocking the tractor in high gear to see if it releases. Try loosening the starter mount bolts to see if it frees up.
2) Just to be on the safe side I would remove, clean n wire brush, each and every battery and starter and ground cable connection. If any cables, grounds, or connections are hot or smoking that needs fixed ASAP
3) The starter switch (or if a solenoid) contacts can get burned pitted and corroded and get hot and resistive hampering the starter motor cranking.
4) The starter motor itself could be bad. Armature may be shorted or dragging,,,,,,,,Bushings can be worn,,,,,,,,,,,Fields may be shorted.
5) Battery may be bad. Is it full charged ???
There can be other causes, maybe the other fine gents can come up with more ideas. Insure drive gear isn't stuck/jammed,,,Insure all cables and connections and grounds and battery posts are good,,,,,,,,,,Insure good and full charged battery,,,,,,,,,,Check for excess voltage drop and heating across a bad starter switch...…….
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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