Posted by Leroy on June 24, 2019 at 06:21:49 from (96.45.243.241):
In Reply to: 8N posted by 3/9semfi on June 24, 2019 at 04:14:07:
I have both a 9N and 2N that are basicly same as the 8N and for that bush hog you NEED live power. So the NAA jubilly is out as only the expermintal live was avaible on very few of them. I also did have a NAA and a Ferguson TO-30 that is very close to being like a 8N Ford. The 4 speed and some of the 5 speed 600-2000 series do not have live power so you should be looking for a 660, 661 or a 2000 with the optional live pto. Something else in that size to consider is the Ferguson TO-35 or newer versions of it and some of them I don't think have live power. And then a 5' mower in almost an overload on any of them and a 6' is a definat NO_NO. You need the live power to get out of tough spots along with the live hydrolics to raise mower to also help you get out of those tough spots. I had a 4000 that put out 60 horse on the dyno and a 5' unit and had no problem with killing the engine in heavy stuff, The Ford or Ferguson tractors that have the live PTO and live hydrolics are in the 32-35 HP range so barly enough power to run that 5' mower if there is very heavy stuff to mow. And where you think you would have no use for a loader if you would get a tractor with it on you would find you would be using it way more than you think you would be doing it. Now they will be wider than the 5' mower as they have a normal wheel tread of 56" but you have to add 12" to that for the tire so that makes it 68" wide and a 5' mower is 60" wide. You can with trouble get most of them to a 48" wheel tread but that would still be wider than a 5' mower. Depending on what you have to mow a 6' finnishing mower might be a better chioce as say for a second mower after you get the heavy stuff knocked down. I think the 5 speed Ford tractors have a slower first gear as well and that might be what you should have for the mower. And all the tractors for the Live PTO would handle a 2 bottom 14" plow or a 7' disk but do not get a 3 point hich disk as they would make front end light for steering. Make sure tractor has a good swinging drawbar and get an old drag type of disk, will do a lot better work. Rear blade for any with the live PTO a 7 foot would work but for a blade you need the stabilizer bars on BOTH sides. For pulling a trailer you need that good swinging drawbar that you can lock in non swinging position as the 3 point hitch is no good (killer) for pulling that trailer.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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