Posted by Steve@Advance on July 22, 2019 at 12:28:45 from (24.182.105.128):
In Reply to: rod bearings posted by haysaver on July 22, 2019 at 02:54:37:
Put a glob of grease in the oil hole to keep grit out, get some 1" Emmory cloth, start with 80 grit, polish all the stuck on bearing material off the journal.
Once down to the crank material itself, mike the journal in several positions. New it would have been 1.9365-1.9375.
If it measures less than 1.932 in any position, it is out of tolerance. If the crank has been previously turned, deduct the amount it was turned from the numbers. If it has been turned, it should be stamped, or the number stamped on the back of the bearing insert.
If in tolerance, keep polishing with finer Emmory cloth down to 320 grit or so. The better the finish, the more likely it will hold. Clean the grease out of the oil hole, clean everything best you can and then keep cleaning!
If the bearing turned in the rod, evidenced by the lock tabs sheared off or flattened, the rod will need to be reconditioned.
I would go ahead and remove all the bearings, mains too, measure the rest of the rod journals, polish if in tolerance. Then you can access more places to clean and blow out metal shards. Remove and disassemble the oil pump, inspect it carefully and clean it and the pick up screen. Those pumps have a history of the drive screw shearing or coming loose between the shaft and gear.
One other caution, with the head off, the cylinder liners will ride up with the pistons. If any moved, even slightly, they will need to come out and be thoroughly cleaned where they seat and seal on the block with new orings. The seal is critical, the height above the deck is critical, .002-.0045 is the spec.
Anything you can do to stop oil leaks, now is the time. The rear main seal can't be accessed from underneath. If that is where it was leaking, new bearings and rings will help. Many oil leaks are a result of excess blowby.
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