Posted by Bill(Wis) on August 21, 2019 at 14:27:11 from (174.197.21.185):
In Reply to: Subsoiler posted by Joe Styke on August 21, 2019 at 11:54:38:
I have just about every soil type on my farm. I usually pull a Brillion 3 shank subsoiler with a Kubota M6800 4wd with a loader. 62 PTO HP, 57 drawbar HP. 17" deep, no-till points. No coulters. I could pull most of the time in L3 until I added 600 pounds of weight to the rear wheels. Then I could only pull in L2 due to reduced wheel slippage although I was going faster in L3 slipping than I was in L2 not slipping so much. I let the lift arms sway a quite a bit. That way when I hit smaller rocks the shanks will either shift to one side or the other or roll the rock up out of the ground. Then I put the rock in the loader bucket on the next pass. The shanks on this subsoiler are parabolic which pull easier than straight shanks. Non-reset, shear bolt protected. I have never sheared a bolt. When I hit an immovable object, the tractor spins out. When I pull with a 125 HP tractor (my next size up) I can go faster but will shear pins. Not good. I sheared 42 pins one day before I learned to slow down but even then that only helps a little bit. I actually get more work done with the smaller tractor. I also have a 4 shank CaseIH subsoiler, straight shank with coulters, that I pull with a 125 HP tractor. That's the one I use most of the time. Coulters are a must if you have a lot of residue.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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