I don't care what length the chains are as long as they aren't dragging on the ground. The breakaway tether should be attached to the trailer hitch frame or the vehicle frame, NOT to the ball insert if it's a recv'r hitch! Those inserts can come out and then you have no breakaway if the tether is hooked to the hitch. The tether should be short enough to activate (pop the plug) BEFORE the chains would come tight in the event the trailer becomes unhitched. I've tested a lot of breakaways and I have yet to see one that will lock the brakes on even an unloaded trailer. I'm telling it like we were taught in DOT school, there may be State laws that spell it out differently. As we were told, the breakaway should activate just before the chains come tight even if the regular service brakes remain attached and working. They were supposed to keep the unhitched trailer now being dragged behind you more or less straight and not whipping around, maybe busting the chains and it was to help keep the trailer from rear ending you...which it will do if there are no brakes and you slam on the towing vehicles brakes.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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