K Effective said: I agree that I'd rather not mix the brine with my septic. I'm also not a fan of bringing the water outside the foundation into the house for a pump to pump it back out. This accentuates the need for backup pumps/power sources.
and
kcm.MN said: I agree with Mark's post. To add to it a bit (OK, a lot), it has been my belief that homes with conventional water softeners should have 2 separate waste water drains; one for sewage and the other for grey water, which "could" go directly onto the lawn, or could go to a grey water drainage pit. That way you have less problems all around. However, that is the more expensive option as well.
Agree with all of this. I also didn't realize the sumps were being fed from outside until late August this year. I've got just about enough drop to (almost?) daylight additional tile running from the floor drains and also from the outside tile that goes into the sump about 100 feet away, over where the old leach pit used to be. I was thinking of a drywell out there to drain both, which would be more on the order of $4-5000 by the time it's all done. I can do that if I have to, but looking for alternatives (and possible downsides of that plan).
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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