The other possibility is "minimalist". We have a 2000 watt Honda, which works fine for us. If you have a wood heating stove and a Coleman cook stove, the only thing you really need to operate is your refer and freezer(s). We run the Honda outside, with an extension cord to the freezers and to the refer in the house. We only run one at a time, alternating among them, and then only a couple or 3 times a day, to keep the temp down. If you need power for water, get a big enough unit to run your well pump, but we don't bother with it- keep a couple cases of bottled water on hand, and dip out of the creek to fill the toilets. Just skip baths for a couple of days.
The key to all this is usually SWMBO- mine is used to rough camping in the woods on horse rides, so she's fine with roughing it. Your results may vary (boy, is that ever an understatement!).
What we do now is just move into the self-contained RV and act like we're camping. Run the generator if the batteries get low. Still have to keep the refer and freezers cold in the house, of course, but you could actually do that off the RV generator.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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