Your post has a confusing Statement "when connecting positive ground after negative excessive sparks" The tractor came from the factory with 6v positive if gasoline, 12v if diesel. If you connected the battery backwards (negative ground) and sparks were made at the terminal, you probably welded the points in the cutout relay in the regulator together. This causes the generator to be connected to the battery when stopped. If you put a charger on the battery (now connected correctly) and the fan vibrated, that is what happened with a 90% probability. As John T indicates, disconnect the battery, and charge it while not connected. Tomorrow, or whenever, Disconnect the bat wire and arm/gen wires from the regulator. With an ohm meter, or a continuity tester, test between those two terminals on the regulator. if they are connected, the regulator should be considered fried. If they are open, no conduction, then (with the regulator disconnected) attach the charged battery. The Bat lead to the regulator will now be at battery volts. Touch it to the Bat terminal on the regulator. If no sparks, good. if sparks, the regulator is toast again. If no sparks, touch the Arm lead going to the generator to the Gen/Arm terminal on the regulator. If sparks, regulator is toast again. Replace it. Do as John T indicates to polarize the generator when a new regulator is attached. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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