The pool version of Muriatic acid (sold in the hardware store) is plenty hot stuff. It will knock down some surface rust initially and then keep right on going into the base metal. Ive experimented with it some and concluded that it's too strong and too hard to control for general rust removal. As soon as you open the lid you see a little acid vapor cloud wafting out of the jug like in a cartoon.
Diluted and controlled it could be useful but probably more on an industrial scale.
If you could knock the loose stuff off with some mechanical means then you could follow up with a phosphoric acid which will react with remaining rust and leave an iron phosphate coating. I haven't tried it myself inside of a fuel tank but have used it numerous time for external paint prep.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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