The tree might have an animal in the branches. The numbers are good. Put a plastic knife (or other slip of plastic) between the points to keep them open. Turn on the ignition switch. On the supply side of the coil there should be battery voltage, or a well lit 6v test light. If good, then go on, if not the supply is not getting volts somewhere between the starter switch, and the coil , including possibly bad switch (test at the switch) Going on from above. There should be battery voltage, or a pretty good light on the distributor side of the coil. (less bright but OK) If so go on. If no volts, or no light, the points might be shorted to ground where the wires goes into the side of the distributor, or the condenser is shorted internally (test that by measuring ohms from its lead (disconnected) to ground. It should show some conduction, then go to "open". Going on from above 2 Put the test light on the movable side of the points (plastic in place). Good volts, or same reasonable light and we are near done. Nothing and the points might be disconnected at the spring screw) Last is to see if there is battery voltage from the movable points to the stationary points. If yes, the points need to be cleaned with 350 grit paper, then wiped with a folded dollar bill (plastic out). It should run!!! Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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