It would have originally had the GL1 90 mineral oil. (Not 90 weight gear oil!)
That will work in warm weather. If you do cold weather work, the hydraulics will be slow until the oil warms.
The 15w-40 engine oil is an acceptable substitute. It does better in cold climates. Multi grade oil was not invented when that tractor was built.
Your choice.
A tip, when filling it, fill it very slowly. The oil has to find it's way back from the transmission to the intermediate and differential housings. Fill it too fast and it will dump oil out the input shaft into the clutch. Don't over fill it, the proper level is to the bottom of the round inspection cover below the seat. You can also fill it through the inspection port to prevent oiling the clutch.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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