Here's my H carb adjustment procedure, after I reviewed several different manuals. Make sure the float isn’t sticking or touching the insides of the float chamber. Some previous advice was to use a Dremel tool and smooth the insides of the float chamber so the float doesn’t rub or touch. Pretty important. Set the float so the top of it rests 1 27/32" above the flat surface of the float chamber. [Note a new float might already be set correctly.]
INITIAL settings are as follows to get the engine started; Main fuel adjusting screw; big screw facing down at an angle, towards the rear, at the bottom of the carb; 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. This main screw turns clock-wise for leaner mixture. [This screw adjusts fuel.] Idle-air-mixture screw; smaller screw facing forwards, on upper left-hand side of carb; 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. This idle screw turns counter-clockwise for leaner. [This screw adjusts air.] Idle speed screw; faces outboard, at the top of the carb; set for 450 rpm, and make sure the governor correctly engages in the slot. [This screw adjusts RPM’s.]
FINAL settings are as follows; Get the engine warmed up, and idling. Turn OUT the small idle-air-mixture screw until rough running, then turn in until engine idles smooth. (Mine is set at 1 turn open.) Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the big main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. (Mine is set at 1 turn open. Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.)
Engine should rev up smoothly and evenly. Too Lean = stumble, sputter, damaged melted plugs. Correct = tan plugs. Too Rich = back smoke, black sooty plugs.
The other thing is, replace the distributor cap and rotor. If the center electrode is worn too much, she will not start. Use the brass-contact cap, not the cheap aluminum one.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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