I just have to speak up here. You're getting a lot of advice about dipstick heaters, oil pan heaters, block heaters and the like. NONE of them have anything to do with your fuel system! Be sure to sort out the oil or water comments from the fuel comments. They are talking about heating the oil or heating the water but have nothing to do with the flow of fuel.
Plugging in your tractor to warm the oil or water is a good thing of course. It'll help the tractor to roll over easier, start easier and some of that heat may migrate its way to the fuel system if in a protected shed, but all your tractor will do is start easy and them quit on you when you get a half mile from home. The temperature of the fuel in the tank, filters and lines is what needs to be above 25 degrees if you run #2. Otherwise you had better have straight #! in there if you want no trouble. A mix of the two or a winter blend as some call it doesn't work in our area and not worth the trouble once the cold sets in.
Also, be sure to use either #2 with your own additives or #1 without, but don't use a blend WITH additives.
Many anti-gel diesel fuel supplements are designed to attach to the waxy paraffin molecules in the #2 fuel. #1 diesel has the paraffin removed. If you put a anti-gel diesel treatment in #1 fuel, it doesn't have the paraffin to attach to and will end up as snot in your tank and filters and cause more plugging than if you left it out. So adding an additive to a blend is rolling the dice depending on your winter temps. Like I said, up here in the North country, nobody sells a blend. Once the weather changes we go straight to a #1 and keep rolling. No messing with additives and never a problem with gelled filters or ice in the tank.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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