Start with verifying the firing order, which is 1243 clockwise.
If in doubt about the timing, static time it.
Remove the #1 plug, hold your finger over the plug hole, turn the engine until you feel compression, keep turning until the piston is at TDC, or slightly before.
The rotor should now be pointing at #1 cap terminal.
Loosen the distributor clamp, rotate the housing clockwise, then with the ignition on, rotate it CCW until the coil fires. You may have to do this several times and with some speed to get the ignition to trigger, but the goal is to stop turning the housing when it fires. That will put it close enough to start.
A quick check of the engine integrity: Pull and ground the coil wire. Hold your hand tightly over the air inlet of the carb. Crank the engine through. You should get a strong vacuum on your hand, and your hand wet with gas.
Little or no vacuum, or pulsing vacuum/blowing back indicates valve or compression problems. No gas indicates lack of fuel delivery.
Have you checked the oil level? If over full it may be gas contaminated, especially if the carb was flooding. The rings may also be washed down. A squirt of oil in each cylinder will raise the compression if they are washed down.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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