Start with verifying the firing order, which is 1243 clockwise.
If in doubt about the timing, static time it.
Remove the #1 plug, hold your finger over the plug hole, turn the engine until you feel compression, keep turning until the piston is at TDC, or slightly before.
The rotor should now be pointing at #1 cap terminal.
Loosen the distributor clamp, rotate the housing clockwise, then with the ignition on, rotate it CCW until the coil fires. You may have to do this several times and with some speed to get the ignition to trigger, but the goal is to stop turning the housing when it fires. That will put it close enough to start.
A quick check of the engine integrity: Pull and ground the coil wire. Hold your hand tightly over the air inlet of the carb. Crank the engine through. You should get a strong vacuum on your hand, and your hand wet with gas.
Little or no vacuum, or pulsing vacuum/blowing back indicates valve or compression problems. No gas indicates lack of fuel delivery.
Have you checked the oil level? If over full it may be gas contaminated, especially if the carb was flooding. The rings may also be washed down. A squirt of oil in each cylinder will raise the compression if they are washed down.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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