Cribbing is the best way to hold it up, but there is no need to screw the blocks together. They should be crossed as they are stacked up. As CN said do one side at a time. If they are loaded you will need to pump or drain the CaCL out first. Post back for info on that if they are loaded. The pros usually change tires with them still on the tractor. You might check in your area for an independent tire guy with a service truck. They come to you. I got two 20.8x38s swapped last spring for just over $200.00 including tubes.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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