Sometimes a drift punch and penetrating oil will get the screws out. Don't worry about ruining the head, just try to shock it loose with the punch, using it to try to unscrew it.
If they won't come loose, just drill the head off. They are not necessary, only there to hold the drum on at the factory or during transport with the wheels off. The screws are soft and drill easily.
The bearings are pressed on the axle, not removable without destroying them. They can be torched off, cut the outer race, heat the inner race to red hot in one spot, hit it with a hammer (do not cut through to the axle!). That will expand the race and it will slide off. The new bearing can be pressed on or driven on with a piece of pipe that pushes only on the inner race.
Any time the bearings are replaced, or the axles are removed, the bearing preload needs to be checked and adjusted with the retainer plate shims.
You will probably want to replace the brake shoes if they are oil soaked. You can try cleaning then up with brake cleaner and sand paper, but that usually doesn't work. More oil will just squeeze out.
How is the gear case oil level? Those are prone to get water in them, which raises the oil level causing less than perfect seals to leak.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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