Posted by t.r.k. on January 01, 2020 at 16:16:22 from (71.31.64.233):
In Reply to: Plasti-guage Use posted by super99 on January 01, 2020 at 11:16:27:
The way I was taught to use it in the '80s was to put the shell in the cap, lube the inside of the shell so the plastiguage won't stick to it, lay the plasti-guage on the dry crank parallel with the shaft, put the cap on and torque the bolts to spec. Then remove the cap and measure the plasti-guage with a portion of the wrapper. I was told that you lube the inside of the bearing so the plastiguage won't stick to it.
You run the piece of plastiguage allmost all the way across the journal to be certain that the journal doesn't taper from side to side.
I only skipped that step on one engine. After all, the crank was reground, right? As soon as I torqued the front main cap, the crank froze tight. Checking with Plastiguage would have told the story.
It turned out that the thrust bearing faces had worn on the crank so that when you pressed in the clutch, the crank moved forward enought that the timing gear could rub the front main bearing boss in the block. It had actually worked the last 1/4" of the bore inward enough that the new cap would clamp tight on the block. I had to get the block align bored at one shop and have another machine shop weld up and re-grind the thrust face on the rear crank journal. This was a late 206 engine in a Minneapolis Moline tractor.
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