Thanks for the input. What you have said makes sense to me. Ford does not elaborate on the subject. It seems I just killed mine? I just changed the hydraulic oil to ATF and now I cannot get it to move at all. It tries a little but does not want to move. I find it hard to believe the type of oil had anything to do with it. Maybe coincidence? It was sometimes taking 60 seconds before it would try to move on a cold start. Now it does not move at all. Funny things is this tractor sat outdoors in a junkyard for over 10 years without being run. When I first got it running - it worked fine. Since then, the more I run it the worse it gets.
I am going to split it. If I see something obviously wrong - like a broken rubber hose or something, I will fix it. Otherwise I am removing all the optional parts and putting in the conventional long drive coupling like a standard NAA came with. I am wondering now if this is why this tractor wound up in the junkyard to start with. Looks like it had a new engine clutch. Maybe the last owner had trouble, put a new clutch in - and then when it was not fixed - gave up? I already have the long coupler to convert it so I guess I will.
Somebody has one of these awful devices for sale on Ebay. Pretty steep price for some old parts that may not even work.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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