Several things. Heat and cold cycles and age eventually harden the rubber compound being used. It also slowly fatigues the spring behind the lip. Older leather lip seals dried up if they were allowed to sit for long periods, plus they simply wore out. If you ever look at a National Seal size catalog, there are many pages describing lip styles and various rubber compounds to use depending on the application, rotation speed, and the type of fluid to be sealed. Back when they first started using rubber seals in automotive applications, the material, Buna-N, I believe, worked well, but it hardened up after a few years. The newer rubber compounds they use today include polyacrylate and others that have a WAY longer life, and new ideas about lip designs have extended the efficiency of seals greatly. Contaminants in the fluid are also a factor in determining how long a seal will last.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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