Dripping gas out the weep hole is normal following a failed start, or sometimes after a shut down, but it should stop after a few drops. If it continues, or gets worse as it sits with the fuel valve open, the carb is flooding.
Flooding is usually caused by trash in the needle valve. If the tank is contaminated, or flaking rust, it will get in the needle valve and hold it open. It only takes a tiny speck to cause it to leak.
Be sure the screen is in place in the sediment bowl. Adding inline filters can have mixed results. Gravity systems don't play well with paper filters, too restrictive.
Something to try, close the fuel valve, drain the carb or run it empty, then open the fuel valve. Sometimes the inrush of gas will flush out the needle valve.
How is the air cleaner? If there is a wire mesh inside the canister, it needs to be periodically cleaned. If packed with dirt it will be restrictive. Also look for mud dobber nests, mouse nests.
Once the flooding is corrected (if present) a way to get the main jet close to adjustment, with the engine up to temperature, everything else tuned and functioning well, idle the engine down, open the throttle quickly, listen for the response. Start leaning (turning the high speed adjusting screw in) 1/4 turn at a time. Repeat the test until the engine falters on acceleration, then back it out, repeating the test until it will take sudden throttle without hesitation. A puff of black smoke is normal. That will get you in the ball park, it may need fine adjusting depending on the load, temperature, humidity, etc.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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