As the others said, that was not a great idea when new, and now with parts from "The Land of Almost Right" it's nearly a hopeless cause.
Best you can you is look for a new old stock genuine Delco switch, there's usually some on fleabay. I shop there for NOS points, condensers, caps, and rotors, as well.
As a workaround to use what you have IF the starter stud is not too badly eaten away, it works to slot the mounting screw holes in the useless starter switch a little to move it in the direction of the "drive end" casting, this works to make the copper contact plate contact the stud in the starter "belly" sooner and harder.
I've done this several times, with success.
There may be an interferance issue if the rough cast edge of the "snout" flange is in the way of the repositioned switch sitting down again the starter "belly", that can easily be taken care of with a grinder.
Also, if the stud in the new switch is held in place with a nut (rather than being crimped in place as some of the new JUNK is) you can take the stud out of the switch and add a washer with a small O.D. that fits the stud between the stud and the switch body, moving the contact area on the stud slightly towards the copper contact plate.
Be sure to keep the insulating washers and sleeve in place so the stud doesn't short to the (grounded) switch body.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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