Before going further, pull the plugs, squirt about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, let it be soaking while you do the rest of the prep.
Crack the oil drain plugs, engine, trans, and differential, check for water. If water comes out, let it drip until oil comes down.
Most likely the points are just corroded from sitting. Hit them with a point file or scrape them with a knife blade, spray with brake cleaner, blot dry with a piece of clean paper.
When you get the tank back on and some fuel in it, leave the line to the carb disconnected.
Open the fuel valve and get a good flow of gas coming through the line. That will verify gas is coming down, but it will also flush any trash out of the line so it doesn't get in the needle valve in the carb.
Spin the excess oil out of the cylinders before trying to start it.
If you have a good 12v battery, temporary it in to get it started, or use jumper cables. It will spin faster, give a hotter spark, make life easier. Just be careful not to leave the ignition on not running. Once it's running you can shut it off, go back to the 6v, see if it will then start on 6 volts.
As soon as it starts be sure to check for oil pressure. Sometimes they loose prime when sitting.
If it starts and runs well, no coolant or oil leaks, bring the RPM up, see if it's charging. If not, the regulator or cut out contacts may need cleaning, same procedure as cleaning the points.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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