Did this happen on it's own, or has the switch been recently replaced?
Either way, easy to test with a volt meter.
Disconnect the small wire from the starter solenoid.
Put the volt meter on the + terminal of the coil to ground.
Turn the ignition switch to the on position, should get near battery voltage on the meter.
Slowly turn the switch to start position, watch the volt meter closely. The voltage should not vary. Try it several times, hold the switch in start position and move the key around, it should maintain a steady battery voltage reading.
If it drops, every time, and there has been electrical changes made, possibly the switch is wired wrong. If the reading is erratic, or no voltage to the coil in start position, the switch is bad.
That is a common problem, especially if the tractor stays outside. Be sure to use a tractor or marine switch, as automotive switches are not water and dirt resistant.
If that test passes, try an actual cranking voltage test. You will need an analog meter.
Pull the coil wire so the engine won't start. Take a voltage reading at the coil while cranking. It will be hard to get a steady reading, but the volts should stay above 8-9 volts. If it drops below that, load test the battery. If the battery tests good, could be a bad connection. Feel for hot connections, discolored, corroded, connections. Some of those grounded the battery to the sheet metal, a common bad connection. Feel for warm cables, if any battery cables have been replaced, be sure they are big enough gauge. Many times automotive cables are too small, more insulation than wire.
Finally check the condition of the starter. If the bushings are worn it will draw too many amps, nothing left to fire the coil.
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo and video filesizes should be less than 5MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
