WHY are you even considering replacing that valve when most likely all it needs is a seal ring?
Whatever you replace it with won't mount as compactly, won't be as convenient, and will require an external return hose.
I have owned two loaders with that valve and put seals in both, with success.
Trouble is it's been over 20 years and I can't remember if the are a simple O-ring or a "chevron" type seal. Either way, they will be available by dimension from a hydraulic supplier.
I currently have a similar loader for an 8N Ford that's not mounted, to which the P.O. cobbled on a generic valve as you are proposing, looks like HECK compared to what's supposed to be there, wish I could find a used, correct valve!
Take the 4-bolt cover off of the bottom, the spools can be withdrawn downward, remove one at a time and/or see SURE to put them back in the same bore.
Once you have one out you can determine the exact seal rings needed.
Care is required putting the spool back in so as not to cut the new seal rings.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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