I posted a comment earlier. After some thought, I want to add to it.
First problem I see is the extra length. That would change the swept area of the piston. The piston would come up higher in the block and would not go as low in the block. The problem there is that is the top of the piston comes up ABOVE deck height, it might hit the head. Potential damage is the rod might get bent, the piston might be damaged, and there could be potential damage to the crankshaft.
Second problem is balance. A different connecting rod could change the compression ratio of that cylinder. It would also change the reciprocating weight of that one cylinder. How much of a problem could it be? Think about this. 1500 or 2000 RPM might seem slow for an engine, but at 1500 rpm, the piston is going up and down 25 times per second. compare that to something like a paint shaker that goes so much slower yet needs to be bolted to the table because it shakes so bad.
Third problem is potentially dimensions. You have several to consider. The diameter of the piston end. Since wristpins are fitted to within a few 10,000ths of an inch, is it correct? How about the crankshaft end? Inside diameter and width come into play here. It only takes .001" to make the difference between a quiet and properly lubricated bearing and a noisy or oil starved bearing that will lock up shortly.
Lastly, why not just get the RIGHT rod for the engine or have the old (and presumably damaged) one reconditioned? If you are that tight on funds, perhaps you should not be rebuilding an engine.
One final note. If you ask enough people and ask often enough, you will eventually get the answer that you seek. That does NOT make it the RIGHT answer. Just the one you want to hear.
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