In my grandpa’s farm shop in the 60s he had a metal working grinder that was from a blacksmith shop and it was set up to run from a line shaft. He did not have a line shaft but it was driven direct from an electric motor about 8ft over the floor. The original belt I believe was a 2 inch wide leather flat belt in a twist to give proper direction. I am certain it had some type of metal splice and it worked fine for years. Now I am a little wet behind the ears to make this statement and I have no hands on experience, but I am almost certain not all flat belts used back in the day on thrashing machines and the like were continuous and had splicers and ran twisted. If you don’t get it by using the other suggestion I would get some ..gaffers.. tape as shown in the link to wrap it. It is a heavy cloth tape. I think it would work to cover the metal parts that are catching. I don’t know if that is a good price or not it was what came up. I just know it is fairly heavy and sticks well. I only know of it because I have used it to repair light leaks in film cassettes use in industrial radiography.. like x-ray weld testing.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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