Posted by Pete in Holland MI on July 09, 2020 at 19:58:02 from (68.188.148.217):
In Reply to: trailers posted by Farmall 656 on July 09, 2020 at 12:09:56:
All depends on what you want to haul. Something fully universal, buy a semi trailer.
Seriously though, unless you can identify what you'll be hauling, it makes it tough to select a trailer.
16-18' will haul most anything.
Width is a question. Will the distance between fenders carry your tractor? If it's wider, it deems a deck-over trailer, but those also ride higher in the air.
You can also get drop axles and really lower the bed closer to the ground on a standard trailer, but ya have to watch the length at that point, as they don't like depressions in the ground.
If you're gonna be hauling tractors, might want to get the 5200# axles, at a minimum. Remember that the trailer cargo weight is the axle capacity, minus the weight of the trailer. 5200# axles will do a lot, so long as the tires are also rated for that capacity. Unless you know you'll be buying a really heavy trailer, advise against the 7000# axles. Empty trailer can rattle your fillings out.
Other things:
Fixed or removable ramps? Fixed raps can be heavier for heavier tractors. Removable ramps will either be too light to survive...or too heavy to move around. I prefer my permanently attached tip-up ramps. Also, get the spring assist to help lift them. It's a torsion spring.
Beaver tail (not a dove-tail) makes for easier travel up on to the deck.
Get your wiring installed in conduit. Saves problems down the road.
8 D-ring tie downs. 4 at the outer corners. 4 up close to the fenders. The 4 close to the fenders will still allow ya to bundle down a pile of 8' lumber stacked over the axles.
I have a 6" tall bump rail made of 2" square tubing from the front of the fenders all around the front of the bed. Keeps slippery tires from sliding off the edge when loading, and general containing feature.
Get a tongue jack operable from the edge of the trailer. Allows installation of a tongue tool box later on.
Heavy gauge fenders. Cheaper thinner ones will bend with a couple fat people sitting on them. Weld them to the trailer. Haven't found a need to remove them. Removable ones rattle. Made mine from 12 ga steel.
6" Channel iron frame is a must. Tractors are heavy on the rear axle. Cross members in the frame at 16" spacing rather than 24".
I added triangular steps between my frame & fenders......both ends. Deflects small trees in the woods, and creates a nice side step for climbing up. Make them out of diamond deck plate though.
Treated deck. Don't skimp here. You'll replace a non-treated deck in 5 years or so. Mine's going on 20 years old & lives outside.
My current trailer is a slightly used one I picked up. Needed some work. Built new heavy fenders. New brakes, re wired. Added numerous D-rings and the bump rail. Also welded a plate to one of the ramps to install & support the license plate. Sand blasted & painted.
Also......don't drive it in the winter. Besides the safety implications, none of those paint jobs will stand up to salt and will find every chip in the paint and spread rust quickly.
If you can't find exactly what you want, find a supplier that will build exactly what you want. My son did that. Not much different in cost.
Good luck !
Buying a trailer for some of us is almost as exciting as buying a riding lawnmower !
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