Just to say you did, go back and recheck the spark at the plugs.
Double check the point gap, check the distributor shaft for side play. It must be tight for the points to stay set.
Even with new points, they can be short lived. Try an old condenser if you have one.
Back to the carb, run the same test at the carb like Jim said, but pull the drain plug on the carb bowl. If good flow there, that verifies fuel is getting into the bowl.
Also check that the gas cap is vented. Sometimes they get clogged with bug nests, try loosening it for a test.
If there is an inline filter, that can be a problem. They don't play well with gravity flow systems.
If you do go into the carb again, look at what is in the bowl. If it's contaminated, that means the tank is also dirty. If it's flaking rust, it's days are limited. If good but dirty, rinse it out with some E85 gasoline.
While in the carb, check the main jet again. If it sat with ethanol gas in it, that stuff dries and attaches itself inside the jets. It has to be scraped out with a wire or torch tip cleaner. Chemicals and air won't get it all out.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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