I agree with the others that to hire it done would be prohibitively expensive. I repaired the rust myself on my '67 Datsun roadster. They were known when new to rust badly, and five years was a long life for one. I spent many hours cutting out rusted areas and butt welding in new metal, but it was worth it. I also made use of phosphoric rust converter to penetrate and kill rust that could be hiding down in rust pits or in enclosed spaces. You will be able to access repair panels, and the body shops don't weld them on, they glue them on with special two part adhesive. You don't need to do the final painting yourself. I did all of the rust repair, the metal straightening, the prepping, the filling, the priming, the sanding and more filling and block sanding, and high build primer and more block sanding. I painted the interior, engine compartment, trunk, and interior sides of the doors myself, and took it to the body shop down the street to get the exterior sprayed, then brought it back and did the sanding and buffing. I made a lot of mistakes that cost me a lot of time, but I would do it again.
Now, slowing the rust. When my '06 F-350 was four years old I noticed that it was getting rusty underneath, so I stopped it. Here is how. I pulled the rubber strip at the bottom of the doors away a little and dragged a big screwdriver along the edge of the outer skin where it laps up and over the inner skin. I cleaned off rust and loosened paint and paint that had rust creeping under it. I then sprayed the seam with WD-40 to penetrate and displace moisture. I gave it 24 hours, then sprayed it with aerosol chain lube, which comes out watery thin and then sets up as a very sticky grease. I have renewed it usually twice a year since then, getting into the rocker panels, the rear bottom corners, and the body cross members. These Ford bodies tend to rust badly over the rear wheels. Lying underneath you can look back and up between the inner and outer fenders, and you can spray WD-40 up in there to run down into the pockets where moisture runs to and dust retains it. Then after giving it penetrating time spray with the chain lube or whatever you like. Fluid Film is supposed to work well too. The truck is now nearly 15 years old and I can't find where the rust has advanced.
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Here are pics of butt welding, clear coat sanding, and a year ago when it was nearly done and on the road.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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