I have had a 310 for 50 years and changing those steering belts is a much dreaded every 10-12 year job that I have yet to do this fall so that I am ready to go next summer. At my age this is probably the last time I will have to do it.
On the 310 it is fairly straightforward but time consuming; it generally spoils a day. I start by loosening the main (vari-drive) and reverse belts, then remove the hydraulic pump and unbolt the bearing housing holding that end of the reverse/header drive shaft. Next remove the bearing housing at the outside end of the main drive shaft (the one with the large vari-drive peully on it). Then continue to dismantle the battery box, sheetmetal and related bracing that carry those bearings mentioned above to a point that you can remove the vari-drive and reverse belts and you are 75% there.
As Jim said, it's easiest to simply cut the old steering belts off.
Threading the new belts in over the remaining shafts and pulleys is a challenge but imminently doable. Where you will get stalled is in getting them into their final position. Although it may seem impossible, if you twist one side of each belt 90 degrees they will pass up through the gap between those big final steering pulleys. The final drive shafts have a 3/4" gap between them which is why one must twist the 7/8" belts to get them through.
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Today's Featured Article - A Belt Pulley? Really Doing Something? - by Chris Pratt. Belt Pulleys! Most of us conjure up a picture of a massive thresher with a wide belt lazily arching to a tractor 35 feet away throwing a cloud of dust, straw and grain, and while nostalgic, not too practical a method of using our tractors. While this may have been the bread and butter of the belt work in the past (since this is what made the money on many farms), the smaller tasks may have been and still can be its real claim to fame. The thresher would bring in the harvest (and income) once a y
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