Bad ground is 99% of brake problems. Check all grounds , especially trailer to truck. Look at the magnets , do they appear burned(blue black color). A burned magnet loses its magnetic ability , if so replace them. Check that the activating arm moves freely and is not rusted tight, so anti sieze on the moving parts is important. LISTEN :Get someone to push the brake pedal down in the truck while you listen by the trailer brake...You should hear a hum. This is the magnet grabbing the drum face. If there is no hum the brakes are not activating so start running checks ie) bad ground , broken wire,burned magnets, seized activating arm and so on. The brake controller will give different readings depending how high or low it is set, but I think 8v should be activating the magnets. When I do trailer brakes I pull the drum and look.If the drum is rusted the brakes aren't working, if the drum face is rusty the activating arm is not working, if magnets are bluish in color they are burned , if none of this then the adjusters are seized and need to be freed up or replaced and the shoes set up with slight drag on the drum. Also over the years found that if magnets shoes etc are bad its cheaper to buy the entire brake assembly and eliminate a lot of mechanical time changing each component. Four bolts and a wire connection and you have the new assembly on and ready to go. Good luck
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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