If the cable is intact, something else has failed.
Take the drive apart, see what drives the cable. If it's a 90* adapter there is a set of bevel gears inside. If it's direct drive something inside is stripped or sheared. It will be obvious once you get into it.
As for the drive on the back of the tach, it's a brass barrel that extends out the back where the cable goes in. It should be smooth and effortless to turn. It can be oiled, something like 3-In-One electric motor oil will work. If you can get the tach out so you can turn it face down, the oil will get in better, just don't over do it.
Also clean the cable and oil the housing with the same oil. The cable needs to move freely inside the housing. If it drags, or the housing has been kinked, or is rusty, the tach will not operate smoothly and will put extra stress on the drive.
As for the wire harness, the split loom works well. It can be bought at about any auto supply in various sizes. Protects the wire and looks professional.
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Today's Featured Article - A Question for Dads This recent topic from the Tractor Talk discussion board is being highlighted because it is an awesome display of the caliber of individuals that have made this site their own. The young person asking questions received positive feedback and advice from total strangers who "told it like it is" with the care many reserve for their own kids. The advice is timeless... so although it isn't necessarily antique tractor related, it will be prominently displayed in our archives to honor those who have the courage to ask and those who have the courage to respond in an honest, positive manner.
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