If the cable is intact, something else has failed.
Take the drive apart, see what drives the cable. If it's a 90* adapter there is a set of bevel gears inside. If it's direct drive something inside is stripped or sheared. It will be obvious once you get into it.
As for the drive on the back of the tach, it's a brass barrel that extends out the back where the cable goes in. It should be smooth and effortless to turn. It can be oiled, something like 3-In-One electric motor oil will work. If you can get the tach out so you can turn it face down, the oil will get in better, just don't over do it.
Also clean the cable and oil the housing with the same oil. The cable needs to move freely inside the housing. If it drags, or the housing has been kinked, or is rusty, the tach will not operate smoothly and will put extra stress on the drive.
As for the wire harness, the split loom works well. It can be bought at about any auto supply in various sizes. Protects the wire and looks professional.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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