-Smaller bore master will marginally increase pressure, if the truck has single piston calipers the decrease in volume should not be an issue.
-Thoroughly manual bleeding of the system with someone else running the pedal for you will eliminate the chance of any air and it will give you a real good idea of what you have for flow and pressure at each wheel.
-Proper routing of lines to master cylinder and combination valve along with proper line size.
Front port is not always for front brakes.
-For the time it would take I would pull the drums, inspect and measure them, check everything over and adjust properly.
-Wheel cylinders can have the same casting number yet different sized bores be it from factory or from a rebuild.
-Does the wheel cylinder bore match what stock for the year would be?
Is one side of a cylinder stuck?
-Is there a residual valve for the drum brakes?
-Is the combination valve holding back the application of the drum brakes too much?
A big difference in a valve for a fiberglass body vette and one from a 9 foot longhorn.
-The setup you have if working properly would seem to be more than adequate to cause the front calipers to lock up solid if the rears were not functioning.
-Pedal travel, pushrod length and geometry.
-I have done a lot of brake conversions on equipment over the years and in general I would expect to see 700-900 PSI on manual brakes and 1100-1400 Psi on vac boot power brakes.
-9 out of 10 times when I resorted to checking actual line pressure the problem was not the sizing of the components it was either air, geometry, condition of components, restriction, blockage.
-A heavy foot should be able to stop that truck without any boost if everything is right.
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