If it's new enough to have electronics, timers, control modules, then it has to be checked with an amp meter.
All the electronics have the potential to have "time out" features, which need to have battery voltage to them in order to complete the timing feature, then the drain drops to a milliamp level.
To protect the meter, start out with an amp setting high enough to handle the worst case of a heavy draw, say 10 amps.
Be sure the doors are closed, everything off, hood light disabled. Give the time out enough time to complete, 5 minutes or so. Have the meter in place between the battery and the load, remove the cable without breaking the connection, letting the amp meter carry the load. This is easier done away from the actual battery post.
If the meter can't read the load, start working down to a lower amp setting until you are in the lowest range or milliamp range.
The goal is around .05 amps, or 50 milliamps. It can be higher if it is a daily driver.
If there is an aftermarket alarm system or radio, that would be the first place to look.
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of Farm Machinery - by Joe Michaels. I am a mechanical engineer by profession, specializing in powerplant work. I worked as a machinist and engine erector, with time spent overseas. I have always had a love for machinery, and an appreciation for farming and farm machinery. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. Not a place one would associate with farms or farm machinery. I credit my parents for instilling a lot of good values, a respect for learning, a knowledge of various skills and a little knowledge of farming in me, amo
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