If it's new enough to have electronics, timers, control modules, then it has to be checked with an amp meter.
All the electronics have the potential to have "time out" features, which need to have battery voltage to them in order to complete the timing feature, then the drain drops to a milliamp level.
To protect the meter, start out with an amp setting high enough to handle the worst case of a heavy draw, say 10 amps.
Be sure the doors are closed, everything off, hood light disabled. Give the time out enough time to complete, 5 minutes or so. Have the meter in place between the battery and the load, remove the cable without breaking the connection, letting the amp meter carry the load. This is easier done away from the actual battery post.
If the meter can't read the load, start working down to a lower amp setting until you are in the lowest range or milliamp range.
The goal is around .05 amps, or 50 milliamps. It can be higher if it is a daily driver.
If there is an aftermarket alarm system or radio, that would be the first place to look.
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Today's Featured Article - A Cautionary Tale - by Ian Minshull. In the early 1950s my father bought an Allis Chalmers B and I used it for all the row crop work with the mangolds and potatoes, rolling and the haymaking on our farm. The farm and the Allis were sold and I have spent a lifetime working on farms throughout the country. I promised myself that one day I would own an Allis. That time event
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