Start by putting a jack under the axle housing on that side and lift the wheels off of the ground, then yank the wheel around and note if there's a lot of free play in the bearings, the seal can't do it's job if the bearings are "loose".
Truck wheel bearings need a little (.003" or so) free play and NEVER preload.
If the free play is a lot greater than that you need to take an extra close look at the bearings when replacing the seal to see if that are failing.
I agree with Cat Guy that Stemco seals are the cat's meow, especially for an over the road truck that see LOTS AND LOTS of miles, if yours doesn't see that kind of service good quality OEM-style wheel seals from a good supplier such as SKF or National will be just fine.
No matter which style you choose you need to get the correct one for the application, also it needs be noted what style of wear sleeve may be on the axle, some OEM sleeves are thin like a SpeediSleeve and some are THICK and special to the application and it's not always easy to source a replacement. Or someone may have stuck a SpeediSleeve over whatever is there/
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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