My 1 cent's worth on the subject. Around here highway standards for concrete is to wait at least 8 days to cure before allowing traffic on it. Of course they use thick high strength concrete with a low slump factor so their isn't as much moisture in the mix to start with. That low slump factor is what allows the concrete to stand up on its own for street curbing which justs uses a form on the back side. The colder it is, the longer the wait.
Could put some plywood down and under the wheels to spread the weight of the tractor. Plywood or some 2 by's under a jack will spread the load.
After this much time, I'd be more worried about getting oil on the new concrete so put some plastic down underneath the tractor.
By all means call the concrete company but they can't tell you if the concrete crew had the driver add more water to make it soupier and easier to pour which then decreases the strength and increases cure time. Sometimes a short handed crew will add water/increase the slump factor to give them more time to work the concrete on a big pour especially if floating and screeding by hand and having to wheel barrow, shovel and rake a lot. An experienced full crew with a screeding machine runn the width of the pour mud will keep the slump factor lower as they are quicker and more efficient. If pumped in then it could be a little wetter mix.
The final outcome will also depend upon the fill material and how well it was compacted. You should be ok on the rebar. We used to use that 6" remesh wire which doesn't have the strength of rebar. There are varying theories on the need for rebar, remesh, using binding fillers, etc. They also make better filler for sealing the saw cuts that holds up better over time.
You probably watched the crew so you know what you got. The quicker they took the forms off might indicate how confident they were in the strength of the pour and how soon they power troweled it assuming they did.
You might think about putting one of those epoxy coatings on it before you get any oil spilled on it.
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