OK, if I understand correctly, you have a four cylinder row crop tractor, same as mine. With final drives on the axle ends. Interestingly, although I replaced the right-hand seal on mine, I never did the left. I thought the left was leaking but after I got the wheel off there was no sign of a leak. I have the seal hanging on my wall if I ever need it.
When you say you're trying to loosen the "cap screw", do you mean the nut on the inner end of the stub axle? I'm pretty sure it's not left-hand threaded. It looks like it has a cotter key, so it shouldn't need a left-hand thread. And the parts diagram doesn't indicate different right and left parts for the axle and nut. Unfortunately, CNH removed the part numbers and descriptions for all parts that they no longer sell, so I can't be 100 percent certain of it.
Just to be clear, the link below should take you to the row crop rear axle breakdown. The nut is item 29.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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