There should be a "chunk" of belting or some such material between the bottom of the radiator & the top of the front bolster. The radiator studs screw into "cap nuts" soldered into the bottom tank. The studs will go through the slotted holes in the bolster. Those slots are there to allow enough movement that allow the steering shaft to go through the hole in the top tank without touching anything. Once that is properly lined up, go under the bolster. Each stud should have, in this order, a "fender" washer, properly sized for the stud and large enough that it covers all of the slot in the bolster. Then comes the spring, another smaller properly sized for the stud "fender" washer larger than the spring, the castle nut & finally the cotter key through the radiator stud to keep the nut from screwing itself off the stud. Have fun withvwhat I consider is the most miserable job you'll ever have while working on an H or an M.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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