There should be a "chunk" of belting or some such material between the bottom of the radiator & the top of the front bolster. The radiator studs screw into "cap nuts" soldered into the bottom tank. The studs will go through the slotted holes in the bolster. Those slots are there to allow enough movement that allow the steering shaft to go through the hole in the top tank without touching anything. Once that is properly lined up, go under the bolster. Each stud should have, in this order, a "fender" washer, properly sized for the stud and large enough that it covers all of the slot in the bolster. Then comes the spring, another smaller properly sized for the stud "fender" washer larger than the spring, the castle nut & finally the cotter key through the radiator stud to keep the nut from screwing itself off the stud. Have fun withvwhat I consider is the most miserable job you'll ever have while working on an H or an M.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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