Air intrusion can be difficult to find, especially on the low psi or suction side of the fuel system. If you are lucky you might see signs of fuel leakage, not necessarily dripping fuel but oily residue on lines or fittings. Air molecules are smaller than diesel molecules so it's possible to have air intrusion without signs of a fuel leak.
If it still has the original fuel/water separator on the firewall beside the brake booster, those were very problematic. Most people bypassed those or replaced with an aftermarket unit. A 7.3 IDI filter head can be swapped, along with a filter that has the drain valve on the bottom.
Injector return lines (rubber lines between all injectors), return line caps/hats and o-rings. There is a "kit" you can buy that comes with rubber line, o-rings, caps/hats, and spring type hose clamps.
Fuel olives/seals. The hard fuel lines from the lift pump to the filter head, and the filter head to the Injector pump. A lot of people try to snug the line down tighter, this might help temporarily but the rubber seals on the hard lines need to be replaced.
Fuel heater fitting on top of the filter head. The single wire electrical connector goes through the top of the filter head and has an o-ring seal.
Rubber fuel line at the inlet of the lift pump, fuel switchover valve on the frame.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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