When I had my 86 Chevy K30, it carried a 7.5 foot Western plow with wings with no front sag. I replaced it with an 89 K15 and tried to hang an 8 foot Pro Plow on it- the plow frame would drag on the driveway entrances with no counter weight, even with the torsion bars maxed out. I formed and poured a concrete block in the bed of the truck behind the wheel wells and in front of the rear posts. There are a couple of old T-posts inside and chains throughout for lifting. I think I used eight 80 pound bags of Quikcrete? I'd guess 600lbs seems about right.
It fits in my 2002 2500HD bed okay, but not perfect due to the spray-on bed liner. I carry an 8.5 foot ProPlus, but still turn the front torsion bars up. The weight allows me to plow with the tailgate removed for best visibility and not worry about it falling out. Makes it a little tough to slide things onto the bed, but I can lift it out with the loader in a minute or two. I can also set stuff on the bed in front of the block and not have it slide out the back. It certainly makes the ride smoother when the plow is off!
The factory Western plow installation instructions describe how to calculate needed counter weight, but don't tell you how to fabricate or install it.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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