Posted by 4240 Turbo on January 01, 2021 at 17:25:05 from (98.127.8.78):
In Reply to: Re: Stihl chainsaws posted by uncletom on January 01, 2021 at 14:32:10:
I run husqvarna saws on account that I like the "smoothness" that their antivibe offers over stihl, but not saying my husqvarnas will/have cut more wood that a stihl. I am not a big fan of that stihl or husqvarna 2 stroke oil. If you want a good, clean, long lasting, reliable 2 stroke, a premium oil for dirtbikes and snowmobiles is going to treat you wayyy better than any saw brand oil. A product such as bel-ray h1R or maxima castor 927 or yamalube 2r or several others. Motorex and redline are excellent brands. Now, I do some commercial logging and am on very good terms with the local stihl dealership mechanic. she is a cute little thing. I see our outfit kill about one piston per year in either husky or stihl. generally appears to be oil related to me. It is common knowledge within the industry that a modern saw is revving higher than a lot of the earlier counterparts on account of better porting and auto tuning therefore causing premature failure of pto bearings, henceforth allowing a crank seal leak and a lean condition burning up the motor. However, this is a problem more so on the medium to larger displacement saws. Several saw shops are recommending a 40:1 mix over the 50:1 on account of many unforeseen crankshaft and pto bearing failures.
I have done the test with my ratio rite for my dirtbike by putting 3 different oils in the ratio rites, dumping theminto my mix and leaving all 3 hang upside down in my shop to evaluate the coating capability of the 2 stroke oils. Afterall, coating is all we get inside the crankcase with all that gasoline, air, heat, and carbon inside that engine. The husqvarna and stihl oils both miserably failed compared to h1r and castor 927, all were done in seperate ratio rites on the same day and left until evening and the saw brand oild were not even capable of coating the inside of the mix cup. all the oil ran out. I run a 32:1 in both my huskys, one was bought used in 2006 and ran good until i ran it over with a log skidder last summer and rebuilt it. That engine had so many hours on it I had WORE OUT 3 plugs to the point that the electrode would not even fire anymore, ran the plug gap all the way to .150" or so. The ground electrod had worn back half way the the threads, and I did this several times, and It was well worn when I bought it, and that engine showed little wear and no abrasion when I fixed it. Now it has a retimed port and more compression and really snorts but still on 32:1 h1r or maxima castor.
My big saw I bought new in 2007 I think and It has less hours but plenty of time and does run nicely and not too smokey at 32:1. If you buy a marginal quality oil and run it at 32:1 it likely will not burn but will carbon foul and smoke you out. Now, Husqvarna does not even recommend their own "premium" 2 stroke chain saw oil in their powersports engines, at all. Guess why, LACKS COATING CAPABILITY. Just like the stihl.
With this in mind, remember that a tuned saw for a 50:1 mix can easily go to slightly richer/leaner oil mix without severe tuning effect, but venturing to a big oil mix jump requires a retune on the carburetion. I would think a 50:1 tune could safely handle 45:1 maybe 40:1 but a jump from 50:1 to 32:1 would definetly be catastrophic without a carb tune.
Several good resources on saw tuning out there guys. hilltop is a good one. Just remember we have to take into account how is this saw being used? sea level? mountains? fire mitigation? Logging? Tree trimming? With this in mind our saw here in colorado run at 9-10000 feet but in a 90*+ temperature with really dry hot conditions. this means air cooled engines struggle to keep themselves cool all day and gasoline boils very easily. all said, a fireline may well be even worse. On a saw known to have pto bearing issues, heat is the enemy.
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