That you haven't driven it, I would hold off on changing the oils just yet. Before running it, crack all the drain plugs loose, let any water out until you get oil. It is easier to get out before it is emulsified into the oil, if it's not too late. Then top up the oil to a safe level if needed.
Drive it around a bit, put it through the motions. Make a list of everything you find wrong. At it's age, unless someone has already gone through it, there will be lots of problems! It holds a lot of expensive oil. If you change it now, you will be faced with loosing it, or having to try to save it and put it back in if it has to come apart.
The transmission, hydraulics, and differential all share a common oil source.
I believe there are 3 drain plugs. They are known for getting water in the cases, especially stored out doors. It gets in around a failed shifter boot. There are round covers on each side that can be removed to reach in and swab it out. You might want to flush it with diesel if it is sludged badly. The cover on the bottom is not a cover, it's the hydraulic pump. Don't try to remove it!
It holds about 5 gallons. Would have had 90w GL1 mineral oil originally. You cab still get it, or substitute 15w-40 diesel engine oil. The 90w will slow the hydraulics in cold weather.
There is a dip stick to check the level or fill it to the bottom of the round inspection cover. When filling through the fill cap on top of the transmission, it will need to be filled very slowly as the passages between the cases are small. Fill it too fast and it will dump oil in the clutch through a less than perfect input shaft seal.
The engine holds 6 quarts. It originally called for single grade oil, temperature appropriate. Now it can be run on the same 15w-40 diesel oil. Diesel oil is better formulated for the old flat tappet engines than modern gas engine oil.
There is an oil cup under the air cleaner, same 15w-40 oil.
The steering gear originally used 90 weight, but few will hold oil due to the seal design. Pumping in grade 0 or 00 grease will stay in better and be thin enough not to channel away from the gears. It can be found at implement dealers as cornhead grease or ordered online.
A shop manual will be a good investment. It will save a lot of guess work.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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