I don't put any faith in the position of end gaps.
There is nothing to hold them, they are free to rotate wherever they want. I know, stagger them in installation, but what happens when it is running?
What is important is piston skirt clearance, round, ring end gap, land width clearance, pin clearance, everything you would normally check on a rebuild plus any weird manufacturing defects.
I once bought a new, from the dealer, 250 chevy 6 block with pistons and rings. The pistons had to come out to have the pins pressed. Pushed all but one out, it had to be hammered out! Press fit in the block! Sent the whole mess back for another.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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