Just realized I'm wrong on my sizes cause at Oreillys last night I was screwing the sender into a bolt gauge which was 3/8" size then the Oreillys guy said something about a 3/8" pipe tap. Technically I think the oil sender is an 1/8" so I would need a 1/8" pipe tap and the block drain valve was 1/4" British so I need a 1/4" tap.
I have an adapter for the block drain but I just as well tap it out. I ran a 1/4" left hand drill into the old block drain and it just cut a little leaving quite a bit around it. Think I could carefully drill out that aluminum. The block drain is about half way down just under the head but above the cam which is above the crank. It is probably only about 3 inches below the present sender. Guess as long as I know it could be a little low, I can deal with that. Either way, when the heat starts to rise above normal, I'll know it.
Bob, I haven't ever used McMaster Carr. First go to has always been Amazing and fleabag.
That darn oil gauge came with this 1/8" plastic line with compression fittings. The male end sticking out of the gauge takes a compression nut thread. I'd like to go bigger so I can use copper tubing. Oreillys and Ace didn't have it. Now I see if I make a road trip I can get it at Napa.
Good thing my labor is cheap as I've spend more time on this little project than it should take for an American tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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