Posted by bc on February 20, 2021 at 10:35:42 from (24.255.129.137):
In Reply to: Engine oil posted by 1850joe on February 20, 2021 at 07:35:11:
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Gambles that gets into a different subject for break in oils with new rings and cam and flat tappet lifters. The non detergent 30 wt is basically a mineral oil which was what was run back in the day. Break in oil from my research is basically a non detergent mineral oil with a high zinc additive. Modern oil has a lot of friction reducers used in modern engines, often aluminum with a different metallurgy used in the rings, pistons, cylinders, and cams. The friction reducers work against the seating of rings in the cylinders of these old tractors so the basic mineral non detergent break in oil allows the rings to seat better which isn't an issue on new engines. That said, the use of flat tappet lifters on these old tractors cause wear on cam shaft lobes so the zinc additive helps reduce the initial break in wear on the cam lobes on these older engines. New engines all have hydraulic lifters which don't wear on the cams which are made with better metal anyway. Also running a rebuilt engine under no load or at fast idle will not create sufficient combustion pressure to seat the rings which can lead to the cylinder walls glazing and the rings not seating which will give you an oil burner with lower compression. Since most of us don't have a dyno to break one in on or can't just go hook up a plow and plow for a hundred hours we just have to run them fast and not let them idle much during that time. Or spend a couple weeks driving around the section.
That is based upon my research. Some here believe in using John Deere break in oil which is a non detergent mineral oil with zinc. John Deere recommends using it for a 100 hour break in and I think IH does the same in their rebuild specs. Getting my rebuilt engine next week they have a bottle of zinc additive to add to whatever oil I use. Am planning to use the 30 wt non detergent for break in and then go to 15w40 diesel oil.
For the guy continuing to use non detergent 30 wt oil in his tractors cause that's how they did it in the old days, well, there are plenty of long time mechanics on this forum who made their living out of overhauling those tractors so oil user beware.
Got my break in sheet from my machine shop for non highway motors without a dyno. 4 to 6 min. at 1500-2300 no load; 9-11 min. at 2000 - rated speed at 25% load; 14-16 min at 2000 - rated speed at 50%; 14-16 min at 2000-rated speed at 50-75% load; and 9-11 minutes at rated speed at 75-100% load. Then for shut down, run it with no load for 2 minutes at approx 1500 rpm. Loading the engine causes combustion gasses to exert sufficient pressure behind the rings causing the ring face to seal against the cylinder wall and the bottom side of the rings to seal against the piston ring groove. The first 4-6 minutes of no load allows the engine to warm up before applying the load.
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