Back the anti surge screw out until out until it isn't touching. It's pretty much useless.
The most common problem is the length of the rod from the gov arm to the carb. The gov has a limited travel, get the rod too short and it runs out of travel before the carb gets pushed closed.
Here's what to do:
Set the dash lever about 2/3 full speed. Pull the pin out of the clevis, push the rod back so the carb is against the idle stop. Note the position of the rod end.
Be careful, or best have someone to start the engine and be ready to shut it down just in case things get out of hand. You will also be dangerously close to the generator belt, so proceed with caution.
Hold the rod back at idle, get the engine running. Slowly and carefully increase the RPM while carefully watching the position of the gov arm hole where the clevis pin attaches. Once you get to a certain RPM the gov arm will start to move back. Continue to raise the RPM until the arm stops moving back.
That will be the end of it's travel. Note that position, shut it down and adjust the length of the rod clevis so when the arm is at the end of it's powered travel, the carb will be held against the idle stop.
You may have to adjust it a few times to get it right, the length is critical.
It is best to have the rod slightly long than too short.
Once you have the length set and the pin back in, set the dash lever to idle. The plunger inside the governor spring should be down against the end of the gov arm, holding the arm down and the carb against the idle stop.
If all looks well try a governed start up. Really need a tach because the full speed RPM will need to be set.
To set the RPM carefully bring the speed up making sure the gov is at least trying to control the speed. You'll want to shoot for about 2200 RPM. To adjust the speed, loosen the U bolt up above the gov arm, by the thermostat housing. With the dash lever at full fast, rotate the U bolt until the Rpm is correct, then tighten the U bolt.
Repeat the return to idle test several times, tinker with the adjustments as needed, but that should get something working.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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