If you suspect the alternator is running the battery down, disconnect one battery terminal, connect an incandescent 12v test light in series between the battery post and the disconnected battery cable.
If the light burns bright, there is a drain. If the light does not burn or burns very dimly, there is no drain or such a small drain it would take months to discharge.
If there is a bright light, unplug the alternator harness connector, see if the light goes off.
If yes, reconnect the battery, test the #1 harness terminal. With the switch off there should be no light. If the #1 has power with everything off, the wire is connected wrong. It should be on a switched circuit.
If the light remains on, remove the BAT wire from the alternator. If that kills the light, the alternator has diode problems and will need to be repaired or replaced.
If the light remains on with the alternator out of circuit, there is something else draining the battery. Start disconnecting accessories until the light goes off.
As for the difference in the amp meter wiring and a volt meter, they wire totally differently. An amp meter will have 2 large terminals on back. To remove it the wires will need to be removed and all tied securely together. This is a high amp connection and must be done correctly. You can use a short bolt and nut, and the connection must be tight, and well insulated. Tape alone is not enough, it needs liquid tape, heavy wrap of good electric tape and finally shrink tube.
To connect a volt meter, it simply connects to a switched circuit. Being a diesel it may not have a switched circuit. You can add a switch which would require you to remember to turn it off, or add a normally open oil pressure switch to power the volt meter (and the #1 alternator terminal too!)
Once the wires are removed from the amp meter, there will be a bail running across the back that is held with 2 nuts, remove the nuts, the bail will come off, the gauge will come out the front.
Clear as mud? Take it one step at a time, it's not that difficult!
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