Well I have a little puller, hopefully it will be enough. Looks like that blade bracket is part of a hub. Where on the bracket or hub should I apply the heat? Is this a procedure where I heat it, apply some wax in there if it will take any, and then douse it with water to break it loose? Or just heat it up and use some wax or WD and then work on with a hammer without cooling it?
Didn't think about putting the nut back on. Thanks.
Besides some broken welds where that guard attaches to the bracket, one of the blades doesn't turn easy so it must have something stuck to it or something could be bent.
Bot it on Purplewave and like everything else I've bot from them, they are selling them at auction for a reason and the reason is because everything is busted, rusted, bent, and broken. There is a lot of things pictures don't show. Got a 6' planning to get a bigger tractor but ended up buying that Ford 1500. Hooked it up this week after I got some long bolts/pins since it is a cat 2 and it ran ok as is with no loud noises and it didn't seem out of balance. The Ford 3 point would pick up the front end allright but not quite enough to get the rear wheel off the ground. Think it will mow ok that way. Going to try shortening the top link some more. The mower mount has a bracket on the top link that will rotate up and down which I learned reading here that it should help when mowing over rough ground.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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