I too would go with a Ford 8n or a 9n with a few caveats:
1) Make sure the brakes work!
Fords tend to leak gear lube out of the rear axle into the brakes. There are seals that cure this. An greasy, grimy, but easy and cheap fix.
2) Dont use a 3 point hitch drawbar!
Get a tractor with the optional (and common) drawbar assembly that bolts solidly under the tractor. There are two types, either a straight back one position type, or a swinging affair that and can be swung to either side, if you get the latter, simply put bolts on either side of it in its guide plate so it cant move. The problem with the three point drawbar type tow hitch is that it can raise up unexpectedly when the trailer momentum is greater than the tractor that is pulling it. That is because there is no down pressure in the early Ford three point hydraulic system. This can cause the hitch to come undone and give the hay riders a wilder ride than they bargained for and possibly give the tractor operator an unwanted mechanical back rub he'll never forget!
Sure, you can get bolt-on stay bars that will hold the three point hitch type draw bar rigidly in place, but they are a pain to remove and re-attach when you want to use the lift for other jobs with other implements. Sooner or later, you'll stop using them when you should.
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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